Sean Michael Ragan

Well, I've been using these for more than three years, now, and the brushes show no signs of degradation apart from some rust stains; apparently some of the bristles are made of steel or secured with steel. The plastic parts are fine. The disinfectant in them has been changed probably every six months, during that time, and has never shown any sign of contamination. I imagine the rule you speak of about changing it daily is only important if you're actually using it for its intended purpose, i.e. to sterilize sharp instruments that will be used on living human beings.

Martin, thanks for pointing that out. Left an instruction out of step 1. Should be fixed now.

Thanks Darcy! Not a bad idea, thought I think they would be on the thick side. Might be worth an experiment or two. Think I still have some around here from my Shrink Dink Gaming Minis project...

This is great, Kevin! And timely, too! I've been seeing these everywhere and it's nice to finally find a detailed discussion. Thanks!

Cool! Why is it called "scatter terrain?"

I love this idea. Well done.

Thanks, Elizabeth! I've observed some fading, too, on the red cord, but not as severe as you describe. In the case of PVC pipe, my experience is that the fading is caused by exposure to sunlight or other UV light, and that some colors fade more than others. Light-fastness should vary with the particular dye molecules used to achieve a particular color. I have not observed fading from commercial "Purple Primer," which I'm sure has been formulated using dye molecules that are more light-fast. The dyes that I used here are intended for colorizing organic solvents (e.g. diesel fuel or denatured alcohol) and thus are not intended to hold up to prolonged UV exposure. I'm sure light-fast versions of all these colors could be prepared if a person could get his or her hands on the right bulk dye molecules, but sourcing them in small quantities may be a bit of a challenge.

Jay-

Thanks so much for your comment, for your enthusiasm, and for your reported results and advice to others. Glad you're pleased, thanks for reading and doing and sharing.

Cheers-

SMR

Jeeem-

Thanks for your comment. I consciously chose to use a container with a screw-top lid to help alleviate the danger of the container popping loose from the lid, from which it is suspended, and falling into the empty space inside a hollow-core door. If you have a solid-core door or the depth of the recess you cut doesn't penetrate beyond the solid upper rim of the door, this is not a concern.

Cheers-

SMR

Hi Lance,

Actually my projector is mounted on a 2' piece of MDF shelving from the hardware store. I've drilled holes in the shelf and put bolts and washers through that secure the projector to the shelf using its built-in threaded mounting holes.

The shelf, in turn, is mounted to the wall using "Cable Shelf Brackets" from The Container Store:

http://www.containerstore.com/shop/shelv...

The nice thing about these brackets, for this purpose, is that the shelf doesn't have to be mounted at 90 degrees to the wall. You can stand under it and lift it up, eliminating tension on the cables, and then adjust the four corners up and down as you want to adjust the image, then let the shelf go, and gravity will hold it in place. So it's easy to adjust.