TV-B-Gone Kit

User-Contributed Project

User-Contributed Project

This project guide is not managed by MAKE staff.

It's easy to assemble the TV-B-Gone kit; this guide walks you through the process step-by-step.

  • Author: Nick Brenn
  • Time required: 30 Minutes
  • Difficulty: Moderate
  • Add Note x
  • x 8

Tired of all those LCD TVs everywhere? Want a break from advertisements while you're trying to eat? Want to zap screens from across the street? The TV-B-Gone kit is just what you need. With just a simple click of the button you can turn off any TV from 100's of feet away. Zap!

Sections
Tools
Relevant parts
first image
thumb image 1
thumb image 2

Add Note Edit Step 1 — Parts Check!  ¶ 

  • On the first slide for this guide, you will find a list of the supplied parts to build this kit.

  • Make sure you have all of the required parts. If you are missing any parts, check under your chair!

first image
thumb image 1
thumb image 2

Add Note Edit Step 2 — Insert the Tactile Switch  ¶ 

  • The tactile switch should be soldered into the S1 spot.

  • It does not matter which way you put it in.

  • Once it is flush with the board, turn it over and solder the connection.

first image
thumb image 1
thumb image 2
thumb image 3

Add Note Edit Step 3 — Brown-Black-Red Resistor  ¶ 

  • Insert one of the Brown-Black-Red Resistors into the R5 position.

  • It does not matter which way you put the resistor in.

  • Turn the board over and solder the leads.

first image

Add Note Edit Step 4 — Tips!  ¶ 

  • To make sure the leads stay in when you turn the board over, bend the leads outwards a little bit after inserting them into the PCB.

  • To ensure that there are no shorts, be sure to clip the leads of the resistors after they are soldered. Do this for all the components after soldering.

first image

Add Note Edit Step 5 — Insert the Small Green LED at D5  ¶ 

  • LEDs have one longer lead and one shorter lead. The longer lead is the positive lead, and the shorter one is the negative lead.

  • Insert the longer lead into the hole marked with the (+) sign, and the shorter lead (-) goes into the other hole on the PCB.

  • Turn the board over, and solder the LED in.

first image
thumb image 1
thumb image 2

Add Note Edit Step 6 — Insert the Yellow Capacitor  ¶ 

  • The small yellow .1uF capacitor (marked 104) is to be inserted into C1.

  • This capacitor is not polarized, so it doesn't matter which direction you put it in. Push it through, bend the leads, and solder.

first image

Add Note Edit Step 7 — Insert the Blue Ceramic Oscillator  ¶ 

  • The ceramic oscillator should be inserted into X1 on the circuit board.

  • The direction of insertion for this component doesn't matter.

  • Turn it over, and solder it in.

first image
thumb image 1
thumb image 2

Add Note Edit Step 8 — Insert the 8-PIN IC Socket  ¶ 

  • The 8-Pin Socket must be inserted into the PCB by matching the silkscreened 'notch' printed on the circuit board to the 'notch' on the socket.

  • Make sure the socket is flush with the board, turn it over and solder it in.

first image
thumb image 1
thumb image 2
thumb image 3

Add Note Edit Step 9 — Attaching the Battery Holder  ¶ 

  • Begin by trimming the leads on the battery holder until there is only about a quarter of the wire remaining.

  • Strip the ends of the wires so there is about about 1/4 " exposed.

  • The red wire is inserted into the positive (+) hole, the black wire is inserted into the negative (-) hole in the PCB.

  • Turn the board over and solder it in place.

  • To test, put the chip in the 8-Pin socket, add two AA batteries, and your LED light should be blinking. The chip should be inserted with the dot on the IC facing the notched end of the 8-Pin socket. Before moving on, remove the batteries from the holder.

first image

Add Note Edit Step 10 — Inserting the Next Resistor  ¶ 

  • In position R1, insert the other Brown-Black-Red Resistor. Like before, the orientation of the resistor on the PCB does not matter.

  • Turn the board over and solder it in.

first image
thumb image 1
thumb image 2

Add Note Edit Step 11 — Inserting the 220uF Capacitor  ¶ 

  • The blue capacitor has a longer lead, which is positive (+), and the shorter lead is the negative (-).

  • Insert this capacitor into C2, where the longer lead is inserted into the hole marked with a (+).

  • Turn the board over, and solder the leads in.

first image

Add Note Edit Step 12 — Insert the first transistor.  ¶ 

  • The transistor marked 2907 should be inserted into Q5.

  • The flat end should be facing outward on the PCB, matching the silkscreen. Push the transistor through the hole, and solder the leads in.

first image
thumb image 1
thumb image 2
thumb image 3

Add Note Edit Step 13 — Inserting the 4 Transistors  ¶ 

  • Included in the kit are four NPN (2N2222) transistors. They are soldered into Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4.

  • Insert each transistor matching the silkscreen on the PCB.

  • Turn the board over, and solder the joints. Be sure to snip the leads to avoid anything shorting out.

first image
thumb image 1
thumb image 2
thumb image 3

Add Note Edit Step 14 — Inserting the LEDs  ¶ 

  • Each IR LED has a longer lead and a smaller lead. The longer lead is the positive (+)

  • You will want the LEDs to face forward, so leave some room when you insert the LED into the PCB. (see pictures for LED orientation)

  • The two 'clear' LEDs go on the outside of the PCB, and the two 'blue' LEDs go on the inside as pictured.

  • After you solder the LEDs in, bend them forward.

first image

Add Note Edit Step 15 — Finished!  ¶ 

  • Now add two fresh AA batteries you're good to go! Keep in mind that the LED will blink continously if your batteries are low.

  • All done! Take this anywhere you need to zap a TV. Just point and press!

  • After hitting the button, the TV-B-Gone will continue to transmit for around 2 minutes, sending all the codes stored in the chip.

  • Enjoy!

For more information, check out the Remote Control category page.

Did you successfully follow this guide?

This guide has been completed 8 times.

Comments Add Note Comments are onturn off

Guide Add Note

Hello Nick – I read your article “TV B

Gone” with great interest.

For several years now I have been thinking of a black box that

lowers the commercial volume. You would have to detect the

signal that precedes and follows the commercial and then take

action. Commercials have become too irritating and I believe

there would be a market for such a device.

You article is so well done and in line with this endeavor that I

just had to contact you.

Don dhlsr2@gmail.com

Don Landry, · Reply

Nick - still waiting to hear from you? Don

Don Landry, · Reply

Oops! Sorry Don, I didn't realize a comments section existed! Check your gmail for a message from me. -Nick

Nick Brenn, · Reply

Any reason in particular why i am not allowed to know what the ic is in this open source project?

Davey Jones, · Reply

Davey - It's an ATtiny85V-10-PU

Marc de Vinck,

what is the programming on the chip and where can i get it?

Redd, · Reply

Okay, I have a quick question. Keep in mind I bought this for my non-internet connected dad and so I'm asking HIS question.

He says, the S1 switch is working backwards. That is, the device works when the switch is open (?) and is turned off when the switch is closed (button pushed down). He says this will drain the battery.

Any help!!!????

Sandy, · Reply

Can you send some pictures of the board?

Marc de Vinck,