Remove any dirt of grease from the left end of the table and clean the internal threads if needed.

The motor coupling came preattached to the end of the ball screw. Remove the motor coupling from the end of the ball screw and install it onto the shaft of the X-axis stepper motor. Be sure to tighten the set screw that secures the coupling to the shaft of the motor.

Mount the X-axis stepper motor to the X-axis motor mount using four 6mm cap screws. Since the motor coupling extends beyond the width of the motor mount, you can use the Y- and Z-axis stepper motors as risers while you tighten the cap screws for the X axis.

Install the X axis motor and motor mount to the left end of the table being careful to align the motor coupling with the end of the ball screw. Use two 6mm cap screw to bolt the motor mount to the left end of the table using the existing threaded holes.

Tighten the second set screw on the X axis motor coupling to secure the coupling to the end of the ball screw.

If you have not done so already, install the Y axis stepper motor and motor mount.

There is no need to remove the motor coupling from the end of the Y axis ball screw. The Y axis motor mount has plenty of room underneath to access the motor coupling set screws using a long Allen key.

Snug up the two set screws on the right side of the saddle, underneath the table, that held the original brass nut in place. Not tight, just snug. We will fine tune this in a following step.

Remove the Z-axis fine feed and spoked handle. Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the metal cover that protects the linkage for the fine feed.

Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the C-clip that secures the spoke handle to the shaft. Don't worry if you bend or break the C-clip; you will not need it.

Save the Z-axis fine-feed dial. It can be attached to the end of the Z-axis stepper motor in case you ever want to manually move the Z axis (this can only be done when there is no power to the motor!).

With the spoke handle removed, carefully pull out the splined shaft that engages the rack.

Use the Z gib lock to make sure the head doesn't slide down the column, and remove the torsion arm or gas spring depending on which type of counter-weight your mill has.

If removing the torsion arm, remember that it is under tension when you go to remove the bolt holding the arm in place.

Lower the head of the mill in order to gain access to the plastic stop at the top of the column. This plastic stop is what keeps the head from coming off the column.

Remove the plastic stop and then raise the head of the mill until it is in the position shown.

The piece of black plastic at the top of the column should pop right off as you raise the head of the mill past its original maximum height. Put is aside for now and put it back once the build is complete.

DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE Z-AXIS BALLSCREW MOUNT. It is put together with a heavy pre-load on the thrust bearings. If you take it apart, you will need to put a lot of pressure on the locking collar to get a good preload again.

Using the two 5mm screws from the fine feed mechanism, secure the Z-axis ball nut block to the side of the mill's head.

The top part of the Z-axis lock will be sticking up in the air at this point. Use the large 12mm screw that came with the kit to secure the ball nut block from inside the spindle head.

Just snug all screws up at this point. You will tighten everything once you know there is no binding.